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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 13, 2010 16:56:14 GMT 12
heres a pic or 2 of the clutch fork when the clutch is engaged and disengaged.. the clutch plate was fine... the problem is it wont allow it to go into gear at all. if you put it in gear when the motor is off and try to fire it up with the clutch in, it labours and wont fire due to the slow rotation,so if i adjust the fork so it travels further it will start in gear (still laboured) but not drive, as soon as its out of gear you cannot get it back in.. i have even spaced the box back from advice from others thinking the input shaft could be fouling in the spigot bearing, and this had made no difference.. so does anyone have any more ideas? a previous owner said this set up has worked fine before, so what could the issue be?? the box? and heres a pic for those of you that like a juicy steak.
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Post by rightnut37 on Jul 13, 2010 19:23:18 GMT 12
hey no grip i had the same symptoms found out that i was over pushing the pressure plate packed it off the fly wheel 1.5 mm (a washer under each bolt) and it done the trick
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 13, 2010 19:37:46 GMT 12
do you mean you put washers between the pressure plate and flywheel??
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Post by rightnut37 on Jul 13, 2010 19:42:47 GMT 12
yeah thats the one was havcin a hell of a time trying to get it to work that sorted it
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 13, 2010 19:44:39 GMT 12
hhmmm might give it a go... just means the engine comes out AGAIN!!
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Post by rightnut37 on Jul 13, 2010 19:51:18 GMT 12
yeah thats a prick least i have a bolt on bell just on a side note do you know how many hemi powerd stokies are still round i thort i was the only one till i found your posts
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 13, 2010 19:53:44 GMT 12
one in tga i think, they were asking about a cam on trademe... do you have any pics of yours youd like to share?
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Post by rightnut37 on Jul 13, 2010 19:58:53 GMT 12
yeah that was me askin bout the cam but franklin cams in puke wer guna do it cheaper i would gladly put pics up but iv tryed and cant get them on here and now iv also gota get some more reasnt pics to
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Post by rightnut37 on Jul 13, 2010 20:06:17 GMT 12
if this works its a pic of the mity 245 painted up and back in the car and will try get more pics up tomorrow
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Post by streety6p on Jul 14, 2010 10:44:17 GMT 12
I have put another idea for ya bellhousing on your other thread paul, It involves cutting ya bellhousing off flush at the firewall thru the welds & adding on a flange to make it removable from the firewall
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 14, 2010 12:33:50 GMT 12
if i were to do that id be loking at a repower instead..
but i dont have the time or tools to do that to the bellhousing right now
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Post by savstl1000 on Jul 14, 2010 15:41:02 GMT 12
if ya clutch plate is swt and the operation of the clutch fork is swt and not goin ova center then it soundz like u got a lazy presure plate thats draging on the clutch plate. how old is ya presure plate?
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Post by herecomestheboom on Jul 15, 2010 7:03:37 GMT 12
if you put spacers in behind your pressure plate it would bring it out further..that would only make it worse (if infact your fork is travelling in too far).
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Post by engineer on Jul 15, 2010 7:41:05 GMT 12
Cut the bell housing off and put a proper one on. Clutch plate has to be correct thickness for pressure plate,as a rule the fingers should be flat when bolted up. Is your master cylinder ok?If you have misalignment problem the input shaft can drag in spigot bearing!! Are there any dowels to line up engine to firewall when you bolt engine back in?? Cut that bellhousing off and save yourself a hole lot of grief!!!
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Post by rightnut37 on Jul 16, 2010 16:20:55 GMT 12
Hey there sorry my earlier post was a bit confusing , what i done was i had the fly wheel of the motor and bolted the clutch up to it and found out my pressure plate was going over center when i bolted it up so by putting the washers under it it remedied that problem then i had to put a pedal stop in the car just so i couldn't over push the pedal. If you have a drill press pull the fly wheel of the motor and put the release bearing on the fingers and using the drill press (not turned on HA HA) just check that it is releasing before putting it in the car that way u eliminate the clutch itself then it can only be either a misalignment or an over throw problem
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 16, 2010 17:24:01 GMT 12
yes the engine has dowels to locate it on the firewall..
from memory the clutch plate measured 7mm or there abouts the one i took out was 6mm.. or it might have been 7mm and the one i put in 8mm... either way i put one in that was 1mm thicker.
when i cranked the pressure plate bolts up the fingers didnt come completely flat, they stuck out a fraction...
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 18, 2010 18:17:23 GMT 12
righty ho, ive got a flywheel,clutch plate and pressure plate arriving this week,
its out a running car so ill compare the clutch plate thicknesses and if it still doesnt work im throwing the fork set up and going for a hydraulic throw out instead..
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Post by savstl1000 on Jul 29, 2010 10:08:09 GMT 12
hay paul did you get your issues sorted??
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 29, 2010 12:30:55 GMT 12
not yet...
and we have our first practice on the 25th september... it will be unlikely for me to have any days off till the end of calving now.
so its fingers crossed
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Post by smacker on Jul 29, 2010 13:45:00 GMT 12
get the cows to cross the legs then u mit get some time lol ;D
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