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Post by rustytim on Jul 2, 2011 22:02:04 GMT 12
So I have wanted a Stockcar for a few years now so when this one turned up on trademe made some phone calls and it was mine.  So get it home and look over it. Had a few people look over it and cage wasnt legal so off it all comes. Then discover the diff tractor links are very worn. While I am at it thought I may as well redesign the rear end. Wasnt on my list for the offseason rebuild but it must be done.  Can people help me with the best way to mount the diff. She is running coilovers which I will be keeping but I was going to replace all the Tractor Links. What is the best length to go for? She is running a very short panhard rod currently with 2 forward arms and 1 very poorly engineered ladder bar.  Any help with diff setup would be appreciated. I will be adding more pics and stuff going on with the car as I get out into the cold garage over winter. |
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Post by simoneyez31 on Jul 3, 2011 9:16:25 GMT 12
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Post by rustytim on Jul 3, 2011 11:58:20 GMT 12
So your car runs a rearward mounted 'ladder arm' rather than the under the floor one that my car runs? Apart from the obvious access advantages does this help with set-up and gettin power to the ground over my setup?
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Post by gwatty on Jul 3, 2011 12:00:07 GMT 12
Tim, is this what u have been doing when u supposed to be "SICK" from work...
Gwatty ( your Boss)
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Post by joker9377 on Jul 3, 2011 14:45:21 GMT 12
Ouch....busted!!! ;D
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Post by mikehansen on Jul 3, 2011 15:25:20 GMT 12
Tim, is this what u have been doing when u supposed to be "SICK" from work... Gwatty ( your Boss) haha caught out |
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Post by krizo on Jul 3, 2011 15:34:06 GMT 12
am expecting stick.......but,hope the car was CHEAP AS mate!!
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Post by rustytim on Jul 3, 2011 17:18:55 GMT 12
Nah Jase. Just the holidays you keep giving me. Sure you cant count.
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Post by rustytim on Jul 3, 2011 17:21:36 GMT 12
And yes the car was cheap. Im not expecting to be a race winner. Is very much a beginner car. No point in spending 10-15k on a first car when I havent even driven a stcokcar before. May or may not be for me. I enjoy the engineering and building of the car just as much as the driving.
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Post by simoneyez31 on Jul 3, 2011 21:39:48 GMT 12
yea i havent raced it yet just coppyed it from a friends car 75g flatty x1nz but 4 a flatty it hooked up rather well
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stevo
Full Member
Posts: 147
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Post by stevo on Jul 4, 2011 12:31:02 GMT 12
im going to be running a rear facing lift arm on my tank. gives more room under seat. easier to work on.
and have been doing research all season talking to guys that run them. most of them said if the lift arm faces down to the diff they get alot of traction on a slick track
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Post by rustytim on Aug 20, 2011 18:33:06 GMT 12
So Ive got a little bit done on the car recently. Have sourced a new diff $100. Stripped diff down, cut all old mounts off, cleaned up, and designed new mounts up for it. Bought new tractor links and rose joints to remount the diff. Just need to confirm sizings on holes for tractor link bolts etc then can get new mounts cut either waterjet or plasma cnc and weld up.  image uploadAlso bought an EL Coon. First ford Ive ever owned. Figured that given engine needs to come out to be resealed I may as well replace it with a much newer and hopefully more reliable engine.  upload pngpngTurns out engine has only just been run in at 160kms. What are peoples recommendations on the must do list for the engine? Bear in mind im not going out to win a championship I just want reliability and to keep some money in my pocket. Does anyone want any other bits off the Falcon? All I want is engine, starter, alt, p/s pump and drivebelt. Does anyone have any pics of how to setup drivebelt with all the standard accesiories except no A/C? Hoping to get diff in car in next week or 2 tops. Then onto remounting rear shocks then the floor, seat, cage, body. Im starting to think I may be best to get a fancy 'not ford y' body now rather than wait until I wreck the ford y and then have to modify cage again at that stage. |
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Post by extra on Aug 20, 2011 19:06:21 GMT 12
I would do main and big end bearings,piston rings and a good wash out minimum.Also may want to get the head checked then it really up to you and your budget were you go from there. I just have a fresh standard Au tickford with holley carb,snz Ecu and a walford engine cradle which im hoping will give me a reliable package to start out with.
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Post by rustytim on Aug 20, 2011 19:11:55 GMT 12
Ive been told the valve springs need to be done as they arent up to the job? What are your thoughts on this? Is it easiest to get el manifold modified for carby or will the early xd manifold bolt straight up and use that for a cheaper option? Go with a 3.9 carb or just go a 350 cfm holley?
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Post by craig on Aug 20, 2011 19:59:11 GMT 12
Also bought an EL Coon. First ford Ive ever owned. Does anyone want any other bits off the Falcon? tim, we will swing by and take the rest of the coon off your hands for a hundy if you want...... |
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Post by scotty 911w on Aug 21, 2011 8:20:36 GMT 12
keep the fans,they are a magic setup.
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Post by craig on Aug 22, 2011 19:07:28 GMT 12
keep the fans,they are a magic setup. Yes they are a good set-up - often sought after by guys doing engine swaps, hot-rods etc |
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Post by rustytim on Sept 2, 2011 21:23:15 GMT 12
Have done a bit on her in last few weeks. Well spent a bit of money on her. $100 for 2 HQ 3spds.  post image wordpress$240ish on Nice shiney paint. Hopefully Its still shiney once its on the body  image upload$50 FWD shifter assembly  post image wordpressAnd the bit I have been waiting for CNC cut diff mounts. Got plates for coilover mounts, all new diff mounts to go onto new diff housing. Have new rear wheels bearings, Axel seals, pinion seals. Just worked out last week that by the time I have this car on the track she will have new engine, gearbox and diff in it. As well as new cage, body, floor, shifter, pedals, . . . Why didnt I buy a greensheeted car?? Oh right cos this was going to be cheaper. Have also decieded to replace the body now with Not a Ford Y. Should pick that up in a few weeks. Came up with the good idea of mocking up rollcage with some cheap 6mm rod to sort out lenghs and bend and roofplate height |
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Post by Mav, back bein a pit biarch on Sept 2, 2011 21:35:55 GMT 12
Why didnt I buy a greensheeted car?? Oh right cos this was going to be cheaper. Haha....so hearing you there.....think it ends up costing more, but then you do end up with reliable parts in the car that you know of and should hopefully trust. |
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Post by rustytim on Sept 2, 2011 21:37:16 GMT 12
Forgot to include the picture of pretty new diff mounts.  hosting imagesHave also spent more money on new shocks for all 4 corners They are just a standard falcon rear shock I think. At $60 each cheap enough that if they do the job I will be very happy. Have changed coilover top mount design so that if ever bent or damaged at the track I can just remove coilover assembly and throw away shock and assemble with new shock n put in car. Not have to weld a top onto shock once coilover is in place like previously. Im hoping to find enough time over weekend, (Between shifting Mums fleet of racecars from Red Zone Avonside to Rolly) to tack weld all new diff mounts onto housing and test fit with tractor links in the car. Saved a bit of very thin plywood from work which will do a good job of mocking up new floor once diff is in and mounted. Will Then use 6mm rod to check on rollcage bends and body fit before doing full size attempt with the much more expensive rollcage tube. Hopefully will have her rolling again inside 2 weeks with new shocks and everything. Touch wood. |
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