New 29s (Read 201,920 times)

[Autopete55]

You have a good cause and effect deal going on there and your project will show this as time goes on.

Logical and calculated thinking going on and in the end your car will show this.

keep up the good progress going!!

[Saloon29s]

pete55 said:

You have a good cause and effect deal going on there and your project will show this as time goes on.

Logical and calculated thinking going on and in the end your car will show this.

keep up the good progress going!!

You have to think like that realy don't you? Whether you are making a piece of furniture, building a trailer, decorating a room or building a Stockcar. If you don't have the thought process thing going on, then who knows what you would end up with. I used to make quite a bit of furniture as a hobby. I would always start off with an image in my head of what the finished piece would look like, then work back wards through all the stages of construction (again in my head). After that was done, then it was time to start building. I have tried to carry that process through to my relatively new hobby of engineering as much as possible.

[ross]

"Waiting for Mr O'Halloran to get back from his holiday so he can make my link arms".

You could save some cash by making these yourself, And if you do get them made for you, make sure your lengths are correct, don't just fit what fits, make them fit your car! But you are right about needing bits before you go to far, can often be faster to wait than make an error. Oh, and make sure you get his Jumbo joints for front and rear panhard bar, cost more but break less.

[nzf2stocks.]

To Hemi245 and others, I've started a thread in the tech section about suspension etc to 1, keep all this advise in one place and 2, keep it out of here . Keep up the good work and keep the photo's coming

[Saloon29s]

Update:
This is last weeks work, the diff strengthened and the shock mounts welded on the correct side.


Have talked to Mr O'Halloran and I need to sit my diff and front axle in the car at ride height and then give him the measurements for the linkarms. He has given me a guide to what length they should be so I will see if I can work my mounts around that. My axle isn't quite ready yet so I couldn't do that today so we spent the day cutting centres out of rims. We also had to fix the roller door as I ripped one side off the wall when I tried to open it. (dodgy welding on the bracket but not by me!)

[Saloon29s]

Check out this quality piece of engineering! Good enough to get chromed. ;D


It goes in here somewhere.

[Autopete55]

Now that you have one made,I hope you are building spares as you go or not??

Very nice piece of work going on there by the way!!

[Pazza]

Any reason why u have put the beam 2 the lower part of the KingPin ??

[Autopete55]

Strength etc but more importantly the height of your beam in relation to you stub axle has a great effect on your roll centre of the front axle.
Has alot to do with the physics of where the panhard rod hangs off the axle in relation to everything else too!!

[Pazza]

I thought that it would b a different height 2 your standard kuriger etc beam, were the chassis is level 2 the front bumper underneith the beam. Not on the large angle underneith the beam loosing travel downwards on your beam.I thought u would need the kingpin in the centre of the beam 2 clear your lower chassis rails etc...........WAZ JUST MY THOUGHT..sit the chassis & beam at your ride height & see how much down travel u have i spouse........as with my ex 32s i only had 100mm under my beam & that waz with the kingpin level with the bottom of the beam & the chassis waz flat underneith my beam.........

[Saloon29s]

pete55 said:

Now that you have one made,I hope you are building spares as you go or not??

Very nice piece of work going on there by the way!!

I am making some spares as I go, not an axle yet though. All credit to Rob Lintern as it is another one of his pieces. ;D

[Saloon29s]

pazza32s said:

Any reason why u have put the beam 2 the lower part of the Kingpin ??

As Autopete said, roll centre, strength - The stub is more or less in line with the beam so a direct hit to the wheel is less likely to bend the king pin. By having it where it is, it means the steering arm will go between the two link arms and the top shock mounts will be lower. Also, you only need about 2" clearance between the axle and the chassis as the axle won't travel down, only up.
Ideally if you jack the car up, you want the axle to hit the chassis rails before the wheels come off the ground. This means that in the event of climbing over a car the shocks are not going to fully extend and therefore not strain the shock ends.
(All info supplied by Rob Lintern)

[346 tri-rail]

Hi stockcar29s,good work on the car,i hope this is the right thread for this question,could somebody please give me a ball park figure for a bare chassis(only steal work,minus suspension etc).I'm building a new car for the coming season and don't no the ins/outs of the weights etc,ive modified and rebuilt a couple of cars but never started from scratch.Any help would be appreciated.Please every one keep up the good work with these discussions i find some of the topics very helpfull.
Glen Roache 346H

[Saloon29s]

Wohooo, I made a wheel guard. Its the first bit of progress for a few weeks! Now that I have my front trailing arms I am hoping to get the axle fully mounted over the next week, and then it will be on to the engine mounts! In the mean time, here's a pic of the wheel guard for you to have a nosey at. Not much I know, but I had to put something on here. ;D

[Saloon29s]

Trailing arms are mounted.


Engine mounts are done.



This jigsaw is the next project. Front torsions.

[nzf2stocks.]

Looks good, but I would brace those mounts on an angle front and back. A little bit of steel now might save an engine.

Those torsions look pretty techy.

[Saloon29s]

I wasn't sure if the mounts were strong enough or not. I knew that someone would tell me if they needed to be stronger. ;D First job tomorrow or maybe tonight....

The torsions will be just a basic torsion setup with the O'halloran bearing special on the front.

[Autopete55]

I see you have BOTH mounts welded into the chassis.
Will you have enough "jiggle" room to get the engine in and out as is or are you going to make one side removeable at a later date???
I agree with Paul 92a,you will need bracing on those mounts as with chassis movement,the enviatable hits etc,things move round eh???

Interesting way youve attached you radius rods to the chassis.Gone for the "All rods the same length" type of set up???


It makes me envy you guys and all the work you do on these things!!!
Brings back memories!!!

Great effort there stockcar,it is looking good!!!

[Saloon29s]

I am hoping the engine will go in and out with the mounts the way they are. If not, I will have to make one side removable. And yes, all the arms are the same length. It will cut down the number of spares I need to carry.

[Saloon29s]

After reading Autopetes post about 'jiggle' room and then going out to the shed and having a look, it quickly became apparent that this engine wouldn't be coming out or going in the way I had it mounted. This triangle shaped lug (in the red circle) was going to be in the way. The engine needs to come forward about 15mm before it can be lifted up because of the two centering lugs at the back of the block that go in the engine plate.


The two pic's below show the engine mounts, version two!
At least I didn't put the engine in upside down like the diff!! ;D ;D ;D