sucker for punishment ae (Read 6,996 times)

[nogrip-31gm]

well i must be an absolute sucker for punishment, or seriously addicted to dirt..

ive got and brought the ex wayne wilding skylab 11c hemi powered sled..

has had a new cage put on it and came with a trailer... thats kinda where the happiness ended for me this weekend..

i knew it had clutch issues, was hoping it was just a clutch plate..
turns out the engine has to come out for the clutch to be done.
so out come the motor (2hrs work there)
clutch plate is fine and the pressure plate isnt too bad either..
so im stumped, theres plenty of travel in the clutch fork..

also an issue with the starter, it wont engage with it bolted up tight,i dont know with it,driving me nuts..

also found that it need new belts and either modify the seat or get a new one cos theres no crotch belt hole..

and another issue is the engine doesnt have any snz seals, yay for me..

i also cant locate any 5x120 rims anywhere!! i mean anywhere!!
i have tried every darned wheel outlet and the same story, i cant even get a reply from any engineers or anything to get some made..

so yeah, i cant even test drive it on the farm, so as you may tell im fairly frustrated to say the least...

not sure how to attack things from here cos i seriously dont have any spare time to get these things sorted by practice...nor do i have a clue how to remedy these issues...bl00dy cars

[busterbell]

hang in here buddy, the answers will be forth coming from the macgors team.
im a bit lost as to what rims your are after or the sizing that you refer to. 5 x 120 has me a little confused.
you dont want to have to pull the engine everytime the clutch needs attention, that will be a major headache. some alterations now will save frustration down the track.

p.s
welcome back to stocky heaven ;D ;D ;D

[nogrip-31gm]

5x120 are hq pattern...

[busterbell]

gotcha ;D
check your pm.

[Teams Junkie]

PM Rick23K. He should be able to source some for ya Paul

[streety6p]

Thats weird Paul that no engineer has replyed considering that its not too hard to get some 8/10mm plate CNC cut to the size you want as well as setting up the PCD, Me & my mate use a local sheetmetal guy here for making our centers & is reasonbly cheap too

[nogrip-31gm]

one step forward, 1 back and 2 sideways...


got the starter motor sorted so now i can fire it up and listen to the mighty asthmatic hemi ;D oil appears to be a little milky, uh oh

managed to get the gearbox out, took some measurements of the release bearing and pressure plate distances, and in my eyes and with my calculations it all stacks up, so i have no idea whats stopping it from working..

im sure the release bearing only needs to travel no more than 15mm right??


big plus for me today was getting a cable shifter set up working..
i failed with the last car, and i got super frustrated with the shifter that was in it.so i just need to mount the shifter base once the box is back in the car..so itll have a cross shift pattern....


also took the seat out, need to sort out a crotch belt mount and cut a hole in the seat base for it to thread through,plus extra padding on the kirkey seat..
and also make mounts for the back of the seat, im sure it has to have mounts on the back of it..

thats all for now..

[ross56y]

we sure are !!!
i am looking for a modifed or sallon as i sold my last one
we all need help ;D
you sure your not throwing your clutch too far

[nogrip-31gm]

i could only throw it 15 meters.... wouldv been better if big valerie vili was here, she could throw it further...

[nogrip-31gm]

pulled the engine out again this arvo..

had a spare clutch plate which measured 1mm thicker than what was in it, and its a larger diameter plate too.
so ive chucked that in and cleaned up the flywheel and pressure plate..

i measured the fingers on the pressure plate,from the clutch plate hub to the fingers measured 41mm untightened, and fully tightened it was 34mm,so thats 6-7mm that the fingers moved in when tightened...

i dont know how far the release bearing is supposed to travel

tomorrow arvo i might chuck the box back in and give it a try just for fits and giggles..

[nogrip-31gm]

well after pulling the engine out replacing the clutch with the spare and still no go...

pulled the engine yet again for the 4th time!!! put in a NEW clutch plate,remeasured EVERYTHING, bled the clutch yet again and fitted the new shifter guess what???

IT STILL WONT BLOOOODY WORK!!!

ive had enough of this car, very tempted just to sell it..it is giving me much un-needed stress...had enough...

someone please come and take it away before i set it alight.

[busterbell]

so what is it that is actually not happning??
its not a g/box issue rather than clutch??

[dodge]

If you have a dummy shaft for clutch alignment pull the gearbox out, push the dummy shaft in, work the clutch and see if you can turn the shaft. It could be the clutch is binding up from a out of aligned engine box

[nogrip-31gm]

adjust the clutch right up, it wont allow it to go into gear.
turn it off put the box into gear, fire it up and it works but slips like hell.
adjust it off and it wont even allow it to fire up the clutch labours the engine even with the pedal pushed in.

if i had the time or the money id pull the motor out and put in a 3.8 and a proper bellhousing and firewall...but thats just puring money onto a cow pat...

[streety6p]

Jul 11, 2010 14:08:21 GMT 12 nogrip-31gm said:

adjust the clutch right up, it wont allow it to go into gear.
turn it off put the box into gear, fire it up and it works but slips like hell.
adjust it off and it wont even allow it to fire up the clutch labours the engine even with the pedal pushed in.

if i had the time or the money id pull the motor out and put in a 3.8 and a proper bellhousing and firewall...but thats just puring money onto a cow pat...

Hey Paul that sounds excatly like what happened to my mates car wouldnt go into gear then when it did it would slip like a rapist,We measured another car we had in the workshop (was running same engine/box combo as ours) & we found out his bell housing flange needed to be another 10mm wider,So we got one CNC'd up welded it onto the flange readjusted everything & bingo we had movement & havnt had any problems since

[The Observer]

Put some photos up bro - might help show the problem, must be a measurement out, or one silly thing not working that should?

Easy to miss things sometimes in the heat of battle (and its always a battle when working on a stockcar ) keep the good fight going still time to sort before the new season starts

[nogrip-31gm]

Jul 12, 2010 11:42:47 GMT 12 streety6p said:

Jul 11, 2010 14:08:21 GMT 12 nogrip-31gm said:

adjust the clutch right up, it wont allow it to go into gear.
turn it off put the box into gear, fire it up and it works but slips like hell.
adjust it off and it wont even allow it to fire up the clutch labours the engine even with the pedal pushed in.

if i had the time or the money id pull the motor out and put in a 3.8 and a proper bellhousing and firewall...but thats just puring money onto a cow pat...

Hey Paul that sounds excatly like what happened to my mates car wouldnt go into gear then when it did it would slip like a rapist,We measured another car we had in the workshop (was running same engine/box combo as ours) & we found out his bell housing flange needed to be another 10mm wider,So we got one CNC'd up welded it onto the flange readjusted everything & bingo we had movement & havnt had any problems since

do you mean setting the box back 10mm?

how much stroke or should i say how far forward should the top of the fork move from disengaged to engaged position? i would say its a hq fork by the look of it..


could change to a hyd throw out bearing, atleast i got the gist of that to sort out both previous cars..

[38gm]

gidday paul, just thinking about your problem is it possible the gearbox is pulling up to close to the motor forcing the input shaft of the gearbox to far into the crankshaft and binding the input shaft to the crankshaft, the clutch could be working fine. By spacing the box back a little may give the input shaft the clearance or take the box out and see if any wear is on the end of the input shaft.
remember stockcars are awesome
olly

[nogrip-31gm]

anything is worth a try..

had a very comprehensive run down of the history of this car tonight, seems its been through some hands of some mad people...but very knowledgeable/skillful people, i guess you COULD call them that...

[streety6p]

Jul 12, 2010 19:19:48 GMT 12 nogrip-31gm said:

Jul 12, 2010 11:42:47 GMT 12 streety6p said:

Hey Paul that sounds excatly like what happened to my mates car wouldnt go into gear then when it did it would slip like a rapist,We measured another car we had in the workshop (was running same engine/box combo as ours) & we found out his bell housing flange needed to be another 10mm wider,So we got one CNC'd up welded it onto the flange readjusted everything & bingo we had movement & havnt had any problems since

do you mean setting the box back 10mm?

how much stroke or should i say how far forward should the top of the fork move from disengaged to engaged position? i would say its a hq fork by the look of it..


could change to a hyd throw out bearing, atleast i got the gist of that to sort out both previous cars..

Nah we had spaced the bellhousing back as we were'nt getting enough movement from the clutch fork, It was binding up on the back of the clutch hole but we could'nt modify the hole any larger as it was going to cut into the gearbox flange mount which would've weakend the mount(we are going to change to a Hydraulic throwout bearing over the off season to get rid of the clutch fork),You could try spacing the box back off the bellhousing but i dont think it would fix it