Post by The Observer on Apr 19, 2007 19:27:27 GMT 12
Nuthin yet tanky. Helpin out a mate, but when the day comes it will be good to be able to make a decision using the information provided by some of the experiance on this board. Bit of a bummer that some good info dissappears, but hopefully we can get some quality info stuck up for those starting out.
Meeanee - Palmerston North - Greenstone Park - Te Marua - Greenstone Park (the return) - Woodford Glen
The most important thing you must do is when you take the crank out take the bearings to the parts shop & get them to match the part numbers, the vn had a couple of cranks & the bearings are different, so yuoll end up running the bearings & killing it.
Mods for the motor, just get everything ballanced & put it back togeather, buy a good set of race valves & springs( the std ones arnt up to it & will break) about $300, mine lasted 4 seasons.
Get the cam ground $160.
This will give you a fast & cheap little motor that will do a few seasons before you need start replacing the internals.
Make sure you run all the sensors,
The engine in my old car has just finished its 5th season & all it had done was the valve springs got replaced last year.
Checked the log book the other week & its done 56 meetings, so thats 2 maybe 3 seasons depending on how much travelling you do in a season.
Must (for any engine): Put a set of ARP Rod Bolts in it. Must (for any engine): New Competition Valve Springs
Run all the sensors
Yes the VN has a manual and auto crank, I think the auto has 6 bolts for the flexplate, and manual has 8 bolts for the flywheel, so make sure you get the right bearings.
Once you have that covered you can start on any basic/easy mods. +Swap VN for VP Inlet manifold (water outlet at the front) +Change the Camshaft +VR Heads (much better rockers and I think better to have flowed +VR Exhaust Manifolds
Unless your going to be reving past 7500rpm I wouldn't worry about balancing it.
Or better yet start off with a VS ECOTEC V6, better heads, larger valves, higher std compression ;D
I'm assuming when your talking about making sure the sensors are wired up that your still using the standard loom?
And I recall that you had your chip programmed by the Holden dealer to make it run smoother HDR, rather than purchase the expensive chip....is that right?
cheers for the advice.
yup run the standard loom.
Correct a dealer can change the computer, but that was only to change the timing & the rev limiter & to tell it that some parts are removed( ie the injection, throttle body, auto trans etc) & to stop it going into limp mode. These chips that they are changing dont make any difference as the electronic fuel injection, & throttle bodies are gone, Ring Bathurst performance who sell the chips & they will tell you what they do & are a waste of time for us.