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Post by southrace on Nov 22, 2015 14:45:29 GMT 12
Hi all I'm looking to return to speedway after many years absence in otago and see alot of saloon rollers for sale...my question is can you buy a crate type motor to slot in or do you need to get a engine purpose built? Am I better to try and get a complete car as I'm only wanting to spend 12-15k for a start? Any help and advise much appreciated.
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Post by panicstations on Nov 22, 2015 15:12:28 GMT 12
Im not sure about crate motors but… Prices of some saloons are about half of what they are worth complete so I would buy complete. You probably want to spend around $20k if you want to be at the sharp end, $15k would buy a mid pack saloon. Just my thoughts  |
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Post by insane1 on Nov 22, 2015 16:54:05 GMT 12
 i d be looking at more than $20 to get to the sharp end of the field ,perhaps if really serious up to twice that $20k these days will only really buy an average car but there are some good ones on magors.
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Post by southrace on Nov 22, 2015 17:18:15 GMT 12
I'm not to worried about being at pointy end as I raced tqs along time ago...more trying to find out about what engines can be used or wether better to buy complete roller...
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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Nov 22, 2015 22:04:43 GMT 12
Saloons vary from track to track.
At Baypark you'd be closer to $50 than $15 to be reasonably competitive.
$15 should get you a reasonably competitive car on most tracks.
A big chunk of success relates to set up skills coupled with driving skills.
Add another $5 plus for a trailer.
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Post by Rossco on Nov 23, 2015 3:19:26 GMT 12
The problem with buying a complete car is the motor nearly always let's ya down , the bad thing about that is that the motor is about half the value of the car , while doing your own motor at the start is expensive you do know what you have got .there are a lot of parts in an engine and you only need a little part to fail and it can cause big damage . Just my observation, have fun it is still a great class with some awesome people ,cheers and all the best ,77k
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Post by bikeboy on Nov 23, 2015 9:46:34 GMT 12
there are no crate motors that are within the rules that will be very competitive from the get go, because you have to run cast rockers, most of high performance crate motors will not come spec'd with them,
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Post by southrace on Nov 23, 2015 11:37:39 GMT 12
So what would a reasonable motor cost to build then...remembering I'm learning for a year or two?
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Post by beachboy on Nov 23, 2015 16:30:15 GMT 12
Just stay clear of six pins.
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Post by tank11 on Nov 23, 2015 18:44:36 GMT 12
Just stay clear of six pins. Pm granddad, good car only used on the weekends, driven by a geriatric(lol), with dementia!!!!!!  |
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Post by Speedway Central (David) on Nov 23, 2015 18:54:35 GMT 12
Just stay clear of six pins. Pm granddad, good car only used on the weekends, driven by a geriatric(lol), with dementia!!!!!! Murray Guy has sold this car to Tokoroa. |
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Post by Speedway Central (David) on Nov 23, 2015 18:55:02 GMT 12
Just stay clear of six pins. Pm granddad, good car only used on the weekends, driven by a geriatric(lol), with dementia!!!!!! Murray Guy has sold this car to Tokoroa. |
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Post by southrace on Nov 23, 2015 19:21:55 GMT 12
Yeh I was wanting to buy grandads but I still need to sell my tarmac car so I missed out...hopefully sell it before more saloons come on market later is season
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2015 18:13:51 GMT 12
Pm granddad, good car only used on the weekends, driven by a geriatric(lol), with dementia!!!!!! Murray Guy has sold this car to Tokoroa. its now racing as 69h. been re-bodied as a camaro, not sure i like the change myself but its not my car so i dont actually care... I would say the main thing is to make sure you get a strong bottom end to your motor regardless of total hp and just do the heads etc later as you get more confident and have more budget to play with. I know of some guys who put every last dollar into the top end only to have the bottom let go - while others have happily run the same engine for years because they focused on sorting the bottom end out first and only did the top end later. What ever you get mate - your still going to be lapping the haters in the stands and behind the keyboards so just go and have a blast, the saloon class is great fun and most of the drivers/crews are awesome too! |
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Post by southrace on Nov 25, 2015 6:07:36 GMT 12
Murray Guy has sold this car to Tokoroa. its now racing as 69h. been re-bodied as a camaro, not sure i like the change myself but its not my car so i dont actually care... I would say the main thing is to make sure you get a strong bottom end to your motor regardless of total hp and just do the heads etc later as you get more confident and have more budget to play with. I know of some guys who put every last dollar into the top end only to have the bottom let go - while others have happily run the same engine for years because they focused on sorting the bottom end out first and only did the top end later. What ever you get mate - your still going to be lapping the haters in the stands and behind the keyboards so just go and have a blast, the saloon class is great fun and most of the drivers/crews are awesome too! Thanks for all that advice much appreciated...so when you say build a good bottom end what sort of price are you thinking...also ignition etc all had to be taken into account that's why I'm thinking a car all ready to go would suit better. |
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Post by Pirate Racing NZ on Nov 25, 2015 8:20:31 GMT 12
I bought 99% of the parts for the car for four grand. Spent two and a half on machining the block. A full rebuild kit was around three hundred bucks from segedins. I bought Pistons, rings, gudgeons, seal kit, rods and rockers along with all the bearings. I have the car built by me on the trailer for 16k and loved the build. I had never done it before and no help or sponsors, perfect, no but I am having fun. I have posted pics of aspects of the build on the Facebook page. I got hei and helmate from the states, was cheaper and better. Not an expert but will answer all questions.
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Post by southrace on Nov 25, 2015 12:30:05 GMT 12
I bought 99% of the parts for the car for four grand. Spent two and a half on machining the block. A full rebuild kit was around three hundred bucks from segedins. I bought Pistons, rings, gudgeons, seal kit, rods and rockers along with all the bearings. I have the car built by me on the trailer for 16k and loved the build. I had never done it before and no help or sponsors, perfect, no but I am having fun. I have posted pics of aspects of the build on the Facebook page. I got hei and helmate from the states, was cheaper and better. Not an expert but will answer all questions. Hey thanks so much I have added your fb page and will pick your brain a fair bit as I go... |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2015 16:23:14 GMT 12
its now racing as 69h. been re-bodied as a camaro, not sure i like the change myself but its not my car so i dont actually care... I would say the main thing is to make sure you get a strong bottom end to your motor regardless of total hp and just do the heads etc later as you get more confident and have more budget to play with. I know of some guys who put every last dollar into the top end only to have the bottom let go - while others have happily run the same engine for years because they focused on sorting the bottom end out first and only did the top end later. What ever you get mate - your still going to be lapping the haters in the stands and behind the keyboards so just go and have a blast, the saloon class is great fun and most of the drivers/crews are awesome too! Thanks for all that advice much appreciated...so when you say build a good bottom end what sort of price are you thinking...also ignition etc all had to be taken into account that's why I'm thinking a car all ready to go would suit better. Start off with a four bolt mains block if you can - they are a lot stronger and hold together longer. either way though get it checked/prepped just so you know what your starting with. Put in a decent set of bearings, a good crank and a good reliable oil pump - you dont need the flashest huge volume beast, a higher ratio of oil helps but dont go overboard here. A rebuild kit like pirates used would suit from there - that sorts out the rest of your block. Finally cam, lifters and some heads. can get a cam and lifter kit for about $4/500ish, im not sure about whats legal for saloon heads so cant give a price there. make sure you have decent gaskets throughout and you have a solid little puppy that should keep you on the track for a few years |
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Post by southrace on Nov 25, 2015 17:43:06 GMT 12
Thanks for all that advice much appreciated...so when you say build a good bottom end what sort of price are you thinking...also ignition etc all had to be taken into account that's why I'm thinking a car all ready to go would suit better. Start off with a four bolt mains block if you can - they are a lot stronger and hold together longer. either way though get it checked/prepped just so you know what your starting with. Put in a decent set of bearings, a good crank and a good reliable oil pump - you dont need the flashest huge volume beast, a higher ratio of oil helps but dont go overboard here. A rebuild kit like pirates used would suit from there - that sorts out the rest of your block. Finally cam, lifters and some heads. can get a cam and lifter kit for about $4/500ish, im not sure about whats legal for saloon heads so cant give a price there. make sure you have decent gaskets throughout and you have a solid little puppy that should keep you on the track for a few years Thanks for that rodesta awesome info...but what would a rough total cost of that be that's what I'm after...and then ignition etc on top I guess and wiring etc? |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2015 17:57:50 GMT 12
if your going all new then its gonna stack up a fair bit - worth it in the long run but hard on the wallet!
Four bolt block - between $1600/3000 - silvesterv8 performance do a good 350 block with four bolt splayed main caps.
crank - a good forged steel on is about a grand, or grab a rebuild kit that includes one to suit your block - about $2500ish i think
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