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Post by porry41 on Nov 29, 2006 7:12:43 GMT 12
your thoughts on plugs weve run all brands but all seem to be breaking down got ngk bp6 in there now new leads cap points coil & ballast resistor is it nessasary to run a ballest with a mallory electrical is not my top subject cheers
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Post by madphil on Nov 29, 2006 10:47:28 GMT 12
Sorry can't be much help but I have been using the NGK Iridium IX plugs. Not had to change them in 2 seasons, and I am onto my 3rd engine  Checked them on the weekend and still perfect, but I am running 8mm leads and a high voltage HPX coil pack (no dizzy). They were expensive but when I ran champion plugs I used 2 sets in a season |
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Post by busterbell on Nov 29, 2006 19:52:08 GMT 12
im no expert either but i was running ngk bp5 and had a intermittant top end miss. my engine guru changed me to a colder plug ac 438t thinking that things may be geting a little to hot in the combustion chamber. i didnt have ballast resister either with my mallory, was told it was not neccesary. hell plugs are a science all of their own.  |
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Post by 4stree on Nov 29, 2006 21:41:31 GMT 12
last 2 sets of plugs we bought for rover3.9 were ngk. in both sets we fitted one was a dud. they didnt last long before they started breaking down. have gone to bosch plugs now and not had a problem.
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Post by Autopete55 on Nov 30, 2006 5:44:59 GMT 12
 BP6 is just under (to the cold side) of the middle heat ranges in NGK. Hot and cold have NOTHING to do with heat of the spark.You fit a cold plug to a hot (race) engine and a hot plug to a cold (round town pottering type) engine. Get one of those plug viewers from Auto 1 Direct,Cardwells and the like and check your colours after a race.The colours will tell you whats going on in the chambers.Most plug failures are due to incorrect fuel ratio,compressions etc.Wrong plug for the wrong application. If the spark plug is the correct depth,(ie.doesnt protrude in the chambers too far) and heat range(engine guys will give you an idea where to start) then there is no reason that a plug wont last till it gets damaged. The young Drift racer that we do work for is adamant that the NGK Iridums are the way to go and I feel hes onto something as his Turbo'd Nissan revs like theres no tomorrow and NEVER misses a beat. As for ballast systems....If you are running a ballast type coil(Doesnt matter what brand) then you must fit it with a ballast resistor. The resistor allows for approx 12v to the points at start up (which gives better coil voltage ie better spark) and in the 'run' position you will have anywhere from 6 to 9 volts which in turn gives longer point life. Running a ballast system WITHOUT the resistor only shortens the life of the points and coil and in some extreme cases Ive seen a fire stared under the bonnet. Hope that helps,Porry.  mmmmmm bourbon in the morning...mmmmm 
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Post by porry41 on Nov 30, 2006 22:32:28 GMT 12
so running a ballast system after starting you are running on a reduced spark so running ave gas this is not a good combo ? what if you ditch the ballast coil & run a non ballest coil is that going to affect the twin points ? burp  |
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Post by Autopete55 on Dec 1, 2006 5:57:08 GMT 12
Without getting too techy,what happens is with the ballast system you are running,say 12V through a 6V coil so you get better spark at start up and on the 'run' side of your key. The resistor is doing all the work to keep everything safe. Doesnt matter what coil you run,it wont effect the points as they are the to open and close the circuit so as the spark can be built up in the coil and then released. As a side note,always set your points with a dwell meter,as the dwell angle allows for wear in the dizzy shaft which can make the points gap less or more when the engine is running. From memory the dwell for most V8s is 26-30 degrees. You attach your meter to the negative(points side) of the coil,put a samll piece of paper between one set of points,run the engine and check the dwell reading.Adjust if nessercary and then do the same with the other set. After youve done that,THEN set your ignition timing etc. The dwell is important as it makes sure that that points are closed the correct time to allow the spark to build up in the coil. If the points are closed too long(too large a dwell setting) the magnetic feild in the coil builds up and starts to collapse and you can end up with a week spark. If the points arent shut long enough the magnetic feild doesnt have long enough to build up and again you end up with a week spark there too. And that ends this mornings lesson........... Now wheres the bar? mmmmm bourbon in the morning!!!mmmmmmm  Oh,by the way this dwell stuff goes for anything using points.Its worth the effort of getting it right as the results are quite impressive!!
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Post by porry41 on Dec 4, 2006 21:20:08 GMT 12
rite pete now weve fixed the clutch g/box & diff weell start on the electrics ;D refilled the j/b bottle so were away again .hic ;D
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Post by Autopete55 on Dec 5, 2006 6:04:30 GMT 12
;D ;D
Porry!!!
Ive worked out whats been wrong the whole time.......The diff is out of line with the spark plugs!!!!!! ;D ;D
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Post by porry41 on Dec 5, 2006 21:36:15 GMT 12
ah ha that explains why the the gear box fell out . buurp |
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