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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 1, 2013 23:23:33 GMT 12
will try..
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 3, 2013 19:06:52 GMT 12
have FINALLY settled on my front suspension set up, and have pretty much finished it, just need to fully weld it when i get it back to work next week some time.
rear lower shock mounts have been made and tacked onto the diff..
upper mounts have been fitted allthought theyr only temporary untill the cage is made, as they may be mounted to the cage.
still tossing up whether wo use the racetech or a homdemade seat.
if i run the racetech i will need to mount it in the middle and on an angle towards the pedals
thoughts on this set up?
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Post by quarter on Jun 3, 2013 22:01:43 GMT 12
Good suff, looking at doing a car for myself. Not too many builds with this shape chassis that I want, good to see you playing with suspension setups. I wanted to find away of doing my shocks horizontally. Good job, please go crazy with the pictures.
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Post by The Observer on Jun 4, 2013 10:47:59 GMT 12
GOod luck with the car no grip - will be a mission to finish one car, let alone two on your first attempt at building! Good luck! You'll have to change your board name to nogrip - 31d or 31 t? for the coming season - or perhaps No Grip Racecars  |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 4, 2013 14:37:37 GMT 12
NoGrip motorsport sounds good..haha
May even end up with a C on it yet,who knows, I just want to get it out there.
Not long to go now,so need get into the shed a bit more.
Only thing worrying me is the rollcage rules, id like to have that done asap.
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 4, 2013 17:37:33 GMT 12
will have all the steel arriving for the 2nd this week, or the start of next week.
that chassis will be running tractor links all round, ive still got 9 new ones left from when i switched from them to rod ends.
Quarter- you can mount your shocks horizontal if you make an arm that mounts off your bottom rail, run it horizontal out towards your wheel, then the shock arm straight up..so the up motion will push your shock in.. just need to get some shocks that will be happy to operate lying on its side
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 8, 2013 17:25:14 GMT 12
progress is coming to a grinding halt at the moment...
built my trailer today so i can get the car to work to finish some more welding etc
the trailer is 4200x1995 overall deck size
tandem unsprung
deck ends up about 375mm off the ground with 185/70/14s...
itll be braked eventually.
made from 50x50x4 and some 50x25x4
and a piece of 90x90x5
will take some photos tomorrow once i get some paint on it,and throw some lights on it to get it home.
doesnt have guards yet or a tyre rack...and ramps still need to be made..
but from nothing to a towable trailer in about 5 hours is pretty good going
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 9, 2013 15:48:06 GMT 12
ok picture time.. ive decided to go back to the uprights with the shocks. and ive been playing round with a power steering rack instead of a box.. factory rack ends were biffed in the bin, the rack shaft was drilled and tapped to 5/8 and rod ends fitted. made some new arms with rod ends aswell..    and wired up my lights onto my trailer this morning to take home from work. i still need to make a tyre rack and strengthening back out to the rear of the deck, make some ramps and put some decking on it. it tows really well  |
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Post by quarter on Jun 9, 2013 20:17:22 GMT 12
Great update new trailer looks good for 5 hr job, Will the steering rack be robust enough? also what hubs did you use? cheers
just went back and reread first page.
answers my question.
So I guessing it would be a lot easier to have an old hiace lying around for most of the parts, diff, front axles etc...
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 10, 2013 10:05:49 GMT 12
We will find out how strong it is ae.
Would be handy if I had a whole van or Ute to use.
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Post by Autopete55 on Jun 10, 2013 20:17:22 GMT 12
You will have to mount the rack to the axle otherwise you will have bump steer from hell. ie: wont work.
If you use the rack mounted to the axle, you will need a sliding shaft in the column to the rack to allow for axle travel. My old stocky had the same type of deal with a box mounted to the front axle cradle. Worked good and never broke a box ever.
Also get ya front shocks down lower. Rule of thumb is to have at least 1/3 of total shock length UNDER stub axle center line. Makes handling better and stops bent shocks.
Going good Paul!!
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 10, 2013 22:13:24 GMT 12
yeah i was thinking of bump steer after i chucked it in there..
a sliding shaft is no biggy..
and cheers for the tip on the shocks.. no one else seems to wanna offer info when ive asked the questions..
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 10, 2013 22:14:12 GMT 12
You will have to mount the rack to the axle otherwise you will have bump steer from hell. ie: wont work. If you use the rack mounted to the axle, you will need a sliding shaft in the column to the rack to allow for axle travel. My old stocky had the same type of deal with a box mounted to the front axle cradle. Worked good and never broke a box ever. Also get ya front shocks down lower. Rule of thumb is to have at least 1/3 of total shock length UNDER stub axle center line. Makes handling better and stops bent shocks. Going good Paul!! that would explain why my previous cars had bent a few shocks in minor impacts |
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Post by quarter on Jun 10, 2013 22:53:41 GMT 12
Pretty interested how the steering rack turns out. Could simplify some set ups, more of a car feel rather than a truck feel. When do you think your first race will be?
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 11, 2013 12:10:10 GMT 12
Not sure.depending on getting the rollcage done and where the closest track is thats running then.
Still have the engine to cut open, and get it sealed etc, and a clutch,throw out bearing.
Realistically itll probably be start of next year, need to get parts, and need to get the cash first
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 11, 2013 18:08:45 GMT 12
heres a parts list of things I still need to get:
16" thermo fan
muffler
front pipe
air filter unit
fuel line
fuel pump
fuel filter
steering wheel
power steering pump
starter motor
clutch plate
pressure plate
hydraulic release bearing
gear shifter unit
belts
carb kit
rims falcon 5 stud and 6 stud
gauges
brake calipers all round
discs all round
bonnet
body a bit smaller than a y body
after making this list makes me realise that i may not be at the track untill early next season.
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Post by quarter on Jun 11, 2013 21:50:44 GMT 12
Lol then you probably still need to double you time, well I do anyway. My projects take twice as long and cost twice as much as I think. Bugger I can't help you out with parts i have nothing that will work for you.
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RC
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by RC on Jun 12, 2013 6:25:09 GMT 12
have you looked at ussing a 3/4 size ford y body rather than a full size
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 12, 2013 12:20:21 GMT 12
Yup.. It all comes down to cost.the freight for one down to invercargill is a killer, so I might just you a tarp and duct tape ;p
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 15, 2013 12:49:54 GMT 12
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