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Post by mrdamage on Jun 15, 2013 16:41:28 GMT 12
Trailers looking good!
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 15, 2013 19:51:04 GMT 12
thanks mate.
just need to paint it and put on the marker lights and some decking..
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Post by tank11 on Jun 16, 2013 9:38:25 GMT 12
thanks mate. just need to paint it and put on the marker lights and some decking.. For decking we used expanded mesh or re-bar welded every 200 mm, great for dropping the dirt off on the way home or for washing the car on the trailer(at the track) |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 16, 2013 17:11:50 GMT 12
ive got some 25x50 spaced between the main cross rails,but was thinking of adding 2 25angle runs in between these.
expanded mesh isnt cheap.
i painted the trailer the same colour as my truck today. flat green
what colour will my car be?
now, not very long till the start of the season, so I really need to get cracking on this car.
have done a couple of bits on the steering today.
but I cant do anything to do with mounting the steering shaft without a steering wheel and a fitting seat.
the racetech is too bulky for the size of the space available.
looking out for a ultrashield/kirkey etc, or will end up making one.
then i can do the steering and then the pedal box set up.
theres not a great deal left to do, but it mostly needs to be done in some kind of order.
seat needs to be mounted for a cage
front wheels need to be bought or made to do the siderails
and then i still need to buy parts:
calipers
discs
steering wheel
exhaust (muffler and some tube)
fuel line
gauges
belts
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Post by Autopete55 on Jun 16, 2013 17:31:17 GMT 12
Pretty interested how the steering rack turns out. Could simplify some set ups, more of a car feel rather than a truck feel. When do you think your first race will be? Paul is on the right track. The old power steer rack is still worth looking at. Heres another way that works real well. In the past I have set up a rack using ONE end. Mounted the rack length ways up the RH chassis rails up off the floor with the end going to a right angled bell crank. Off the bell crank runs a drag link to the LH steering arm(similar to the box set up Rees uses) Then from the LH to RH side have your tie rod. Used to use VK Holden Commodore racks as they were cheap and easy to find and rekit. Now I would look at Toyota Camry and the like. |
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Post by Autopete55 on Jun 16, 2013 17:37:06 GMT 12
You will have to mount the rack to the axle otherwise you will have bump steer from hell. ie: wont work. If you use the rack mounted to the axle, you will need a sliding shaft in the column to the rack to allow for axle travel. My old stocky had the same type of deal with a box mounted to the front axle cradle. Worked good and never broke a box ever. Also get ya front shocks down lower. Rule of thumb is to have at least 1/3 of total shock length UNDER stub axle center line. Makes handling better and stops bent shocks. Going good Paul!! that would explain why my previous cars had bent a few shocks in minor impacts Yup, Helps with the whole roll center deal too. 4" under the chassis for your ride height (approx) and allow for the axle to not hit the bottom of the top rail when riding cars and the wall etc.By the time you mount the shock below the axle stub center line you will find it fixes alot of problems in one foul swoop. Ignore your spring for a start and get the shock and axle to work together. Then add the spring and check your steering angles for clearance etc and away you go. |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 16, 2013 17:48:21 GMT 12
yeah thats where were up to now.
ill redo the lower shock mounts, and will end up redoing the upper mounts too,which will actually bring them lower to the chassis rail. the only reason I had them where they are is because that is where the mounts were allready when i got the axle.
the diff have mounted the shocks down low as possible allready, I can probably lose another 50mm in shock length by just adjusting them, but I wanted to keep the spring captive for now untill I can get the cage done.
the rack will be mounted to the front axle this week hopefully and Ive been playing with the steering shaft and quickener today using a sliding shaft, and a cam chain set from a LD28..the sliding shaft is just a length of box section with a piece of solid square bar with a UJ on it. that slide in and out through the vertical motion of the axle.
the rack with have 2 UJs off it to align the steering shaft towards the firewall correctly. the sprocket end will be bearing mounted through the firewall (if that makes sense).
these are mounted low down, normally where the brake booster would be.
the chain goes up to the steering wheel height,with a shaft straight through to the wheel.
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Post by Autopete55 on Jun 20, 2013 20:24:17 GMT 12
yeah thats where were up to now. ill redo the lower shock mounts, and will end up redoing the upper mounts too,which will actually bring them lower to the chassis rail. the only reason I had them where they are is because that is where the mounts were allready when i got the axle. the diff have mounted the shocks down low as possible allready, I can probably lose another 50mm in shock length by just adjusting them, but I wanted to keep the spring captive for now untill I can get the cage done. the rack will be mounted to the front axle this week hopefully and Ive been playing with the steering shaft and quickener today using a sliding shaft, and a cam chain set from a LD28..the sliding shaft is just a length of box section with a piece of solid square bar with a UJ on it. that slide in and out through the vertical motion of the axle. the rack with have 2 UJs off it to align the steering shaft towards the firewall correctly. the sprocket end will be bearing mounted through the firewall (if that makes sense). these are mounted low down, normally where the brake booster would be. the chain goes up to the steering wheel height,with a shaft straight through to the wheel. For your sliding shaft, have a look at a steering column out of a HQ Holden. Use the part on the lower part of the column where its close to the box.Its a really nice fit and has a heap of movement in it. |
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Post by scotty 911w on Jun 20, 2013 22:17:56 GMT 12
yeah thats where were up to now. ill redo the lower shock mounts, and will end up redoing the upper mounts too,which will actually bring them lower to the chassis rail. the only reason I had them where they are is because that is where the mounts were allready when i got the axle. the diff have mounted the shocks down low as possible allready, I can probably lose another 50mm in shock length by just adjusting them, but I wanted to keep the spring captive for now untill I can get the cage done. the rack will be mounted to the front axle this week hopefully and Ive been playing with the steering shaft and quickener today using a sliding shaft, and a cam chain set from a LD28..the sliding shaft is just a length of box section with a piece of solid square bar with a UJ on it. that slide in and out through the vertical motion of the axle. the rack with have 2 UJs off it to align the steering shaft towards the firewall correctly. the sprocket end will be bearing mounted through the firewall (if that makes sense). these are mounted low down, normally where the brake booster would be. the chain goes up to the steering wheel height,with a shaft straight through to the wheel. For your sliding shaft, have a look at a steering column out of a HQ Holden. Use the part on the lower part of the column where its close to the box.Its a really nice fit and has a heap of movement in it. falcons have a good sliding shaft too |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 27, 2013 10:08:33 GMT 12
had a big rethink of the steering set up this morning while "sick" off work...or should that be sick of work??
pulled all of the steering rack system out, and now that my seat is sitting roughly where itll stay, i sat the p/s box in where it should be, and it fit alot better than i thought it was going to.
i will still need to run a bell crank to reverse the steering action to the left wheel though...didnt want to but i have no choice, unless someone knows of another way to reverse the action without one...and without using a gear set up in the cockpit.
ive also made my pedal rail,and located the booster and clutch master locations, just need to make the master cyl mounts and finish the welding on the pedal rail and finish off the pedals them selves and that part will be all done.
need to remember to flog the gas pedal off an old truck that were crushing at work tomorrow,itll be perfect...
so thats as far as ive got for now, ive been pretty busy training for an ultra marathon at the end of the year.
its hard to cram in 2 things that you really enjoy.
p.s: does anyone have any 10" coil springs that they would like to swap for some 12"s?
i need to shorten my front springs...
i may get some photos happening at some stage
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 27, 2013 13:24:31 GMT 12
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RC
Full Member
Posts: 222
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Post by RC on Jun 28, 2013 21:05:51 GMT 12
had a big rethink of the steering set up this morning while "sick" off work...or should that be sick of work?? pulled all of the steering rack system out, and now that my seat is sitting roughly where itll stay, i sat the p/s box in where it should be, and it fit alot better than i thought it was going to. i will still need to run a bell crank to reverse the steering action to the left wheel though...didnt want to but i have no choice, unless someone knows of another way to reverse the action without one...and without using a gear set up in the cockpit. put the steering arm out the other side or mount the box beside the radiator |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 28, 2013 21:14:32 GMT 12
im on the hunt for a safari p/s box instead.
id rather not have to mess round with the current arms on the hubs unless i really have to.
will also need to change my current clutch master to a 3/4" bore.
not sure if the current brake booster will work with the brakes i intend to run.
havent had much experience messing with brake sizing.
going in to BNT to sort out my rear disc. still undecide if ill run discs on all 4 or just the 3..
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jun 29, 2013 10:52:48 GMT 12
went and picked up my rear disc today. TR792 disc..fits perfect.  Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 3, 2013 18:01:43 GMT 12
i dont see much getting done for a while now. my welder just cacked itself.
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Post by lemusa on Jul 3, 2013 21:24:23 GMT 12
Welcome to mine, I have no garage for the next couple of months! Catch is you gotta drive up haha
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 4, 2013 10:42:22 GMT 12
Cheers..
A bit far though.
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 7, 2013 13:53:35 GMT 12
a workmate let me use his mig yesterday so we got a bit busy. decided to cut out the top right rail and push it out 75mm for a bit more room. this way the seat will now sit square with the pedal box. still have a few more things to change before i can get the cage done..   Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 7, 2013 14:00:21 GMT 12
ive got a p/s box turning up this week sometime so i can get all that sorted, just need a steering wheel and the drop arm.
id like to get the radiator mounted this week,fit the p/s pump to measure up for the lines.
so much to do...
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Post by nogrip-31gm on Jul 13, 2013 16:53:43 GMT 12
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