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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Sept 19, 2014 9:47:44 GMT 12
Just had a major rebuilt of my engine and looking to protect it at the same time not get lapped too often.
The engine is strong and I use a power glide. Coil overs on the front and torsion rear. 1988 Kuriger (Ex Cowling).
Being largely a loner in the crew department and one who has never studied setup options, never taken a note of outcomes, I'm somewhat lost when it comes to trying anything different. Usually the diff gears that are in stay in and the shocks remain on the car until they are damaged.
I've just taken out the 6.8 ratio gears and scooped the gear oil out (see photo).
My thinking was to take the load off the engine a bit so I put 6.23 gears in (first time I've done this), fat lady on top, and fresh gear oil.
Then I thought, perhaps I should ask for feedback on gear ratio options, set up tips.
I was getting it ready for KK practise tomorrow (now postponed) so checking my ride heights and rear weight left to right.
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Post by Rossco on Sept 19, 2014 10:36:42 GMT 12
Looks mint Murray just give her the Jandal.
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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Sept 19, 2014 11:26:34 GMT 12
Looks mint Murray just give her the Jandal.
That's likely exactly what will happen! 
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Post by Saloon29s on Sept 19, 2014 21:37:03 GMT 12
6.23 is a big drop from 6.8. I have gone right down to 6.31 before at Palmy and it was boggy off the turns. I would suggest trying 6.57 or 6.61, somewhere round there, if you want to drop the revs a bit. That should drop them by two to three hundred from memory.
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Post by blackbullet on Sept 19, 2014 23:30:58 GMT 12
Every gear set change from the gear set chart is approximately 200rpm,something to consider!
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Post by insane1 on Sept 20, 2014 9:06:11 GMT 12
i hope your intending to race at wacky park murray ,as long as the supers not running i can give a hand if needed.
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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Sept 20, 2014 13:34:09 GMT 12
i hope your intending to race at wacky park murray ,as long as the supers not running i can give a hand if needed.
Yes, Waikaraka is on the list!
Thanks.
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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Sept 24, 2014 9:05:39 GMT 12
Hmmmm
Hundreds of competitors, existing and previous, that could add valuable comment to assist, in particular, new saloon competitors with set up and race tips and it's all too secret.
A willingness to share advice would result in faster cleaner racing which equates to less expense and more competitors, a greater spectacle which means more spectators, bigger prize money and on it goes. - a shame!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2014 16:59:29 GMT 12
ummm... Im no expert - but theres a few things Im gonna suggest...
As each night progresses or as the track slicks off, shift the rear wheel out away from the centre of the diff. this will help with cornering {powersliding} to a point.
im not sure if this is possible with saloons but it is a good tip for mods so im gonna go out on a limb and say it here as well.... Have two right rears - same size but different widths, use the wider on a sloppy track as it will give better traction in the wet - use the thinner on a drier track as the wider will actualy give too much traction and can hinder cornering.
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Post by bikeboy on Sept 29, 2014 16:28:00 GMT 12
hey Murray, im not going to try to tell you how to set up your car because i dont know enough, but how much did you change on the weekend? did you try to test some of your idea's?
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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Sept 29, 2014 20:08:52 GMT 12
hey Murray, im not going to try to tell you how to set up your car because i dont know enough, but how much did you change on the weekend? did you try to test some of your idea's?
First practice 6.28 gears. 8.5" stagger. Track very good all things considered with a couple of wet patches.
Tail happy and max revs 6300. Came in to find major diff oil blown out of breather (top rear right of body).
No heat issues or oil pressure. Few back fires I think from an old set of manifolds and pipes.
I had (at home) also changed the rear shocks to a 3 and a 4 which in the video appears to have not helped, rolling over on the left rear?
Missed second practice run as I changed the gears to 6.8 and reduced the stagger to 5.5", need faster crew!
Went out for the final run and the car was tidier. Interesting, still only maxed 5900 revs.
Came in to find more diff oil blown out. Never had this before.
Very impressed with the track and it's obviously going to provide an excellent race surface for saloons.
No enough saloons at practice to roll the track up high.
Told engine now needs head tighten, tappets and tune. Me as well!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2014 20:30:14 GMT 12
Tail happy and max revs 6300. Came in to find major diff oil blown out of breather (top rear right of body). No heat issues or oil pressure. Few back fires I think from an old set of manifolds and pipes. I had (at home) also changed the rear shocks to a 3 and a 4 which in the video appears to have not helped, rolling over on the left rear? oil being pushed out can be several reasons - did a quick net search and came up with a few thngs for you to try and see if they fix it. Basic problem is that as your diff warms up the oil is going into the breather tube and staying there instead of dropping back down like it should. Seeing as we turn left all the time - put your diff breather on the left as well if it is not already. this means its not got gravity working it away from the diff as much. Put another breather on. This will allow a second avenue for the oil to drain back into the diff. Kind of like a straw. If you put a straw into liquid and put your finger over the end, then pick it out of the liquid, the liquid stays in the straw. Now it you remove your finger from the liquid (add a second breather), the liquid goes back into the glass. It can be done the same way as the first method, which is just what people do, so you don't often find 2 breathers on rigs. It's also a second possible point of intrusion for foreign objects into the diff. The good thing is that you can run a smaller one so it doesn't need to be as large. another problem may be just needs a little less oil in it that thought? maybe? If you need crew at kihikihi and huntly I can come help. possibly auckland sometimes too. |
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Post by chris13w on Sept 29, 2014 23:24:34 GMT 12
If it pulled 400 revs less when it had the low gears in, I suspect that the 6300 was from wheel spin when you hit a wet patch?
How much cross weight has it got, just out of interest?
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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Sept 30, 2014 18:45:03 GMT 12
If it pulled 400 revs less when it had the low gears in, I suspect that the 6300 was from wheel spin when you hit a wet patch? How much cross weight has it got, just out of interest? Yip, figured might have been a wet patch also. Checked the taco was set at V8 which it was/is. Never been on scales. Today I moved the diff breather to the LHS and put a coil over on the RR shock. Hope to test it at Rotorua on Sunday. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2014 14:06:35 GMT 12
I like your car Murray, I like the sound of the coffee grinder running with you too...those little rotisssaries sound and go awesome...for cwhat they are...
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2014 15:45:00 GMT 12
I like your car Murray, I like the sound of the coffee grinder running with you too...those little rotisssaries sound and go awesome...for cwhat they are... its a honda, fwd, vtec same 2.4 litre engine as the 24h but a far more timid driver behind the wheel - on some tracks those little hondas can be pretty darn fast! heres hoping he gains a bit more confidence this year |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2014 20:45:58 GMT 12
Hi Murray, here is the set up information I was given by my crew chief before he passed away for a first race set up. RF spring 500-550 lbs with a 7inch 6 comp-2 rebound shock LF spring 450-500 lbs with a 7inch 5 comp-3 rebound shock Are you running coils or Torsion Bars in Rear. If Bars LR 975 lbs with a 9 inch 3 comp/rebound RR 925 lbs with a 9 inch 5 comp/rebound If track goes slick then change the LR shock to a 9 inch 5 comp/3 rebound to slow down the weight shift. When you set up the rear of the car in the garage, ie make centre of real make sure you have about 10 to 15mm of clearance beteew the floor of the LR tire and the floor while the RR should just be touching the floor. NOTE all set ups should be done at racing tre Pressures. If you are using coil springs in rear you want to start at 225lbs on LR and 200 on RR. You could go to 200 LR and 185 RR if you need the car to roll over more. I used this set up for a long time before developing the set up I use now. Another point you raised was the lack of keeping notes, I have the perfect solution for you and everyone else. It's a software called RaceNote, it's free and allows you to input all you set up info, the best thing is I've worked with the guys at RaceNote to get all of the NZ speedways added to the software to allow us here in NZ to use it. racenote.com/Codi |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2014 14:51:23 GMT 12
I like your car Murray, I like the sound of the coffee grinder running with you too...those little rotisssaries sound and go awesome...for cwhat they are... its a honda, fwd, vtec same 2.4 litre engine as the 24h but a far more timid driver behind the wheel - on some tracks those little hondas can be pretty darn fast! heres hoping he gains a bit more confidence this year there ya go, showing my age, anything that could pull those rpm had to be a rotissarie.. but thats a long time ago .....doh |
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