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Post by Murray Guy (Grandad) on Nov 7, 2006 18:43:21 GMT 12
 Many in the saloon class struggle to keep engine temperatures at a safe level. Would be great to read the thoughts of those who have experience, how is this best achieved. Baypark last weekend 240 degrees plus. At the moment I'm having an aluminium radiator fitted. Are 'water wetter' products worth using? What about the pipes from the engine to the rear?
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Post by Josh8Josh on Nov 7, 2006 19:19:45 GMT 12
water wetter works pretty well, works better when its just mixed with water only.
why not use a thermostat that operates/opens at a lower temp
does the fan mounted to the back of the raidiator have a shroud so it actuly creates a vacuum effect when pulling air through as opposed to just pulling in air at a slower speed
the raidiator should also have ducting in front of it so air can not passover the top, bottom and sides the air has to go through the raidiator
mount a windscreen washer bottle to squirt water onto the raidiator at the flick of a switch
just some basic ideas for heat control all fairly simple to do
josh
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Post by Roger Ex 35A on Nov 7, 2006 20:05:57 GMT 12
Many in the saloon class struggle to keep engine temperatures at a safe level. Would be great to read the thoughts of those who have experience, how is this best achieved. Baypark last weekend 240 degrees plus. At the moment I'm having an aluminium radiator fitted. Are 'water wetter' products worth using? What about the pipes from the engine to the rear? Murray I had lots of trouble with overheating in my Corvette, found the water pump was rotating to slow, we put a larger pulley on the crank & hey presto problem fixed, but be aware if the water pump turns to fast I have been told it can cavitate which also causes overheating. Best of luck because overheating can cost big dollars  |
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Post by MattH on Nov 7, 2006 21:21:32 GMT 12
Many in the saloon class struggle to keep engine temperatures at a safe level. Would be great to read the thoughts of those who have experience, how is this best achieved. Baypark last weekend 240 degrees plus. At the moment I'm having an aluminium radiator fitted. Are 'water wetter' products worth using? What about the pipes from the engine to the rear? Coz you guys have the radiator at the wrong end of the car  jks |
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Post by porry41 on Nov 7, 2006 21:53:26 GMT 12
radiator .wet water . news to me . is it in the rule book .is there a rule book wot next ;D were does the wet water go in the jug . hic
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Post by bonezman on Nov 9, 2006 11:14:48 GMT 12
When ducting your radiator make sure to place a few 40mm or so holes in the paneling to the side close to the front of the radiator. If you force air into an area faster than it can escape you will creat positive air pressure restricting the flow more.
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Post by nzf2stocks. on Nov 10, 2006 15:16:22 GMT 12
Even with rear mounted radiators you have to make sure the air can get out again, make sure that your body panels arnt causing a high preassure area behind the radiator; the faster you go the bigger the cheque--- sorry, the hotter it gets.
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Post by Brett85p on Nov 14, 2006 3:44:50 GMT 12
Fit an oil cooler, will reduce engine temp by 10-20 degrees.
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Post by 4stree on Nov 17, 2006 7:30:46 GMT 12
what about taking stress pills murray, that may help lol ;D
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Post by Lucas Injection (72w) on Feb 16, 2007 7:50:20 GMT 12
Increase the size of the cooling system by installing a tank inline with one of the hoses (under pressure). This lowers the amount of heat transfer each litre of coolant has to perform. Make sure its mounted in a place that won't turn it into a big airlock!!
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Post by Autopete55 on Feb 17, 2007 9:45:26 GMT 12
All of the answers here are goodys. Remember with radiators and oil coolers,it's not volume BUT surface area that determines cooling capabilitys. Water wetter is a brilliant product as well as a 78* thermostat or restrictor. The water pump speed is critical and sometimes gets lost in the equation with power steer pump speeds. Good Luck Grandad!! Watched a bit of video of your racing from the Glen and you dont boogy too bad for a young fella!!   Mental note for Uncle Murray, next trip South,must come to Nelson to Wow the locals!!! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2007 14:38:22 GMT 12
agree with others i may only runa production but had major heating troubles at start of seasen got bigger rad but also used a product similar to water wetter from segidins in auck has been great since
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Post by daza on Feb 27, 2007 21:27:43 GMT 12
I have a 6 cyl Cortina production that always ran at about 250*. I have fitted a 4 core Commodore radiator, which helped a bit. Removed the electric fans and fitted a flexi fan blade to the engine with a good fitting shroud, that helped a bit. I use an 18 lb in radiator cap, it doesn't keep it any cooler but does raise the boiling point. Tried water wetter but didn't do much. I cut a hole in the front panel about 100mm by 300mm just below the front bumper. That let more air in to the radiator and made a big difference. I found that the fine mesh I had in front of the radiator to stop the mud also stopped a lot of air. The last thing I did was to get the local radiator man to fit plates into the radiator tanks. One plate in each tank. Now the water enters the radiator on the RH side, hits the 1st plate 1/3 the way down and travels thru the tubes to the left. The water now hits the 2nd plate 2/3 the way down and travels thru the tubes to the right. The water must now go thru the lower tubes to the left and back into the engine. This way the water goes thru the radiator tubes 3 times before going back into the engine. Last race meeting the temp never went over 180*
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Many in the saloon class struggle to keep engine temperatures at a safe level. Would be great to read the thoughts of those who have experience, how is this best achieved. Baypark last weekend 240 degrees plus. At the moment I'm having an aluminium radiator fitted. Are 'water wetter' products worth using? What about the pipes from the engine to the rear?
jks
